‘It just wasn’t very buttery’: the best (and worst) unsalted butter, tasted and rated | The food filter

4 hours ago 3

Unsalted butter is easily one of my most used ingredients. At any given time, I have at least four blocks in my fridge, ready to be softened and whipped into cakes or rubbed into flour for pastry. There is a camp of people who prefer to use salted butter for baking, and while there are definitely instances where that has its place (think shortbread and cookies), I find it much easier and more consistent to be able to control the salt level myself, especially because it varies so much between brands.

However, I tasted each butter on its own (much harder than you think!) and spread it on a plain cracker. The differences between them were much more subtle than I’d been expecting and, for the most part, it was hard to tell which was which. I don’t think you can go too wrong when deciding what to choose, especially if you’re using the butter in baking. But, personally, I avoid those newly downsized 200g blocks – they can work out to nearly double the price a kilo!


Best all-rounder
Waitrose Essential unsalted butter

Waitrose essential. Unsalted butter

£2.25 for 250g at Waitrose
★★★★★

A strong contender. The butter flavour comes through pretty well, it’s creamy without being greasy and has a soft, sweet smell. A very good all-rounder, I’d say.


Best bargain
Marks & Spencer unsalted British butter

M&S unsalted British butter

£2 for 250g at Ocado
★★★★★

This immediately stood out from the others. It has the strongest, butter-forward, creamy flavour, and it spreads really well, too. It also happens to be the cheapest of the bunch, so it’s a win-win!


Best splurge
Country Life unsalted butter

Country Life Unsalted Butter 250g

£2.60 for 250g at Waitrose
£3.10 for 250g at Sainsbury’s
★★★★☆

This has the most notable aroma, with a subtle sweetness to it. It leans towards the creamier side and I’d happily use it in cakes and pastries.


And the rest …

Yeo Valley organic unsalted butter

Yeo Valley Organic Unsalted Butter 200g

£3.20 for 200g at Waitrose
£3.05 for 200g at Sainsbury’s
★★★☆☆

The only organic option here, and one of those smaller 200g blocks, which I don’t love. The butteriness is pretty subtle, but this has a lovely creaminess and good mouthfeel.


Lurpak unsalted butter

Lurpak Butter Unsalted 200g

£2.15 for 200g at Waitrose
£2.15 for 200g at Ocado
★★★★☆

One of the best for spreading consistency at room temperature. Faintly sweet, good creaminess and one I’d be inclined to use to make compound butters.

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Müller unsalted British butter

Müller unsalted butter.

£2.20 for 250g at Co-Op
★★★★☆

A pleasantly clean and milky flavour that doesn’t leave a greasy aftertaste. A solid all-rounder.


Sainsbury’s unsalted British butter

Sainsbury’s unsalted butter 01117011 T1

£1.99 for 250g at Sainsbury’s
★★★☆☆

Another neutral-leaning option that won’t steer you far wrong. It spreads quite nicely and has a very subtle butter flavour.


Cowbelle British unsalted butter

Cowbelle British Unsalted Butter

£1.99 for 250g at Aldi
★★★☆☆

A mild and plain-tasting butter, but it doesn’t have the best spreadability at room temperature. A fine option for baking when you need a neutral backdrop.


Tesco unsalted butter

Tesco Unsalted Butter 250g

£1.99 for 250g at Tesco
★★☆☆☆

The most neutral-tasting of them all, and neither here nor there. Fine for when you’re looking for a blank canvas to add your own flavour, but it just isn’t very buttery.


Anchor unsalted butter

Anchor unsalted butter

£2.60 for 200g at Ocado
£2 for 200g at Morrisons
★★☆☆☆

There’s a gentle butter flavour in this one, but overall it’s quite neutral. Perhaps a little greasier than some of the others.

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