Jess Cartner-Morley: this season, your jeans should be stiff, smart and straight

3 hours ago 4

A funny thing happened at the Venice film festival this year: Julia Roberts turned up in jeans. A film festival red carpet usually means chiffon and sequins, bare shoulders and sweeping hems, but Julia – look, I feel like we are on first-name terms at this point – wore dark Versace jeans with a pale striped blouse and a tailored blazer. And, yes, it is probably important to acknowledge here that when your smile alone could stop gondola traffic your clothes have less heavy lifting to do – but still. It was a moment. A new era of looking smart in jeans has begun.

Most of us feel a bit conflicted about jeans. They are our default setting on a Saturday, but when we need to look smart, we reach for something else. But jeans, worn right, can take you to the office or a nice restaurant with flair to spare. And most of us don’t need to worry too much about the red carpet, after all.

Let’s start with the basics. If your jeans sag at the knees or drag on the ground, no amount of silk blouse wizardry will save the outfit. Smart jeans are about clean lines, good tailoring and a fit that complements you. The extra-wide, extra-long denim that is everywhere at the moment can look great dressed up for let-loose parties. But for a look that reads as semi-formal, a straight leg hits the right tailoring-adjacent note, and the hem should sit just at the top of your shoe. Straight jeans are helpful because they know how to behave themselves in company. If straight jeans had a personality, they would be punctual and polite, very Type A. This is why they are your friend here.

Margot Robbie walking down a street wearing sunglasses, jeans and an oversized jacket over an open shirt and white T-shirt
Margot Robbie shows the way to go. Photograph: Gotham/GC Images

The most common mistake we make when trying to look smart in jeans is to attempt to play down the jeans. If you wear dull jeans and cover them with something snazzy up top in the hope that no one will notice you are wearing jeans, you don’t disguise the denim – you look cobbled together, which is not the idea at all. A simple, classic leather belt that makes a feature of the jeans is the way to go.

Rigid denim has the best silhouette, so look for minimal stretch. The waist should be at your waist – anything low-rise sends a more casual message – and snug but not tight. You are going to wear a belt anyway (see above, do keep up) and I don’t think denim should ever be uncomfortable. You should feel held, but not squeezed.

A blazer is to jeans what lipstick is to a bare face. The juxtaposition makes the look feel deliberate and intentional, which radiates confidence. The contrast of denim with sleek wool or crepe adds texture and interest. This works over a shirt or T-shirt for day, or something slinkier for evening. Pick out a chain necklace or a clean hoop rather than a dangling chandelier earring. It feels more French, know what I mean?

Jeans-and-a-nice-top is a classic for a reason, especially if you are going out for dinner. Starting with jeans makes putting together an outfit simpler, which is handy if it’s a quick post-work change. A silk camisole under your blazer is a simple go-to that gives you options: you can keep both on if you are near the door with a chill breeze, or slip the jacket off if you feel yourself going pink in toasty heating.

The right shoe makes the difference between laid-back polish and popped-out-for-bin-bags. It doesn’t have to be a heel, although it doesn’t hurt. A classic glossy high pump with a jean is eternally chic, but loafers, fresh trainers or ankle boots are all good. A flash of skin somewhere is always a nice detail, if the temperature allows: a couple of buttons undone on a blouse, or a bare sandal if you are wearing a high-necked sweater.

Sometimes the easy choice turns out to be the smart one. And if it’s good enough for the Venice red carpet, it’s good enough for your corner table in Carluccio’s.

Model: Kentha at Milk. Stylist’s assistant: Charlotte Gornall. Hair and makeup: Sophie Higginson using Ouai and Hourglass. Blazer, £395, ME+EM. Shirt, £50, M&S. Jeans, £140, A Day’s March. Necklace, £35.99, Zara. Earrings, £80, Monica Vinader

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