3 hours ago
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The South Caucasus is a region that has taught me just how much can be done with herbs and nuts. Intensely fresh and fragrant, herbs are used liberally in Armenia, Azerbaijan and Georgia, and never as an afterthought or as mere garnish. In fact, entire bunches of basil, coriander and tarragon will often accompany grilled and roast meat from springtime right through to autumn, while bulgur salad is always more leaf than wheat; sorbet may be basil and soda is often tarragon, too. Walnuts are another mainstay of kitchens throughout the region, where they go into salads and cakes and, perhaps best of all, are ground into thick, rich sauces.
Chicken with white wine and walnut sauce (pictured top)
At a restaurant in Dilijan, northern Armenia, we ate roast chicken that, given its wine and walnut sauce, had a distinctly Georgian flavour. I suggest keeping things simple and serving this with just a green salad, a plate of sliced tomatoes or a cucumber and herb salad.
Prep 5 min
Cook 1 hr 30 min
Serves 4
1 whole free-range chicken without giblets (about 1½kg)
Juice of ½ lemon, shell reserved
1 tbsp olive oil
1½ tsp sea salt flakes
Black pepper
½ tsp sweet paprika
½ tsp red pepper flakes
For the sauce
60g walnuts
1 large garlic clove, peeled and roughly chopped
½ tsp ground coriander
¼ tsp ground blue fenugreek
½ tsp ground cumin
Juice of ½ lemon
100m hot chicken stock
2 tbsp white wine
Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/400F/gas 6. Cut away and discard any fat from around the cavity of the chicken. Pour over the lemon juice, drizzle with the oil and season the bird inside and out. Sprinkle over the spices, then put the squeezed-out lemon half into the cavity.
Lay the chicken breast side down in a roasting tin, then roast for an hour, until the juices run clear when you pierce the thickest part of the thigh and there is no pinkness to the meat. Cover, then put in a warm place to rest while you make the sauce.
Toast the walnuts in a small, dry frying pan, then put them in a food processor and add all the remaining sauce ingredients bar the stock and wine. Blitz to a wet sand texture, then scrape into a saucepan and add the hot stock and any juices from the resting chicken. Simmer, stirring often, for 10 minutes, until thickened, then add the wine and cook again for a couple of minutes, until you have a hummus-like sauce. Take off the heat, leave to cool to room temperature, then check the seasoning.
Serve the chicken hot or cold with the walnut sauce alongside.
Citrus and walnut salad
Inspired by the vibrancy of the Aslamazyan sisters’ work, this colourful salad demonstrates how Armenians often pair sweet with savoury and sharpness. Make this for meze-style lunch gatherings, or serve as a side to grilled meat and fish.
Prep 5 min
Cook 20 min
Serves 4, as a side
70g walnut halves
1 small orange
1 small, firm green apple
2 celery sticks, chopped small and leaves reserved
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp lemon juice
Sea salt and black pepper
Begin by toasting the nuts to bring out their flavour fully. Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4, then bake the walnut halves for about eight minutes – keep a close eye on them, and take them out of the oven once they smell roasted. Leave to cool, then break up the walnut halves into slightly smaller pieces.
Peel the orange, then carefully pare off the white pith. Slice the orange in half, then pull out any seeds and cut the fruit into crescents. Core the apple (there’s no need to peel it) and cut it into thin half-moons.
In a large bowl, combine all the salad ingredients with the olive oil and lemon juice, season well, toss and serve.
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These recipes are edited extracts from Green Mountains, by Caroline Eden, published by Quadrille at £28. To order a copy for £25.20, visit guardianbookshop.com
