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My late grandmother was a wedding cook in Malaysia. From her, I learned that Malay cooking is about kindness and balance; no single taste should dominate – it should never be too spicy or too sweet. She believed in celebrating rezeki, the blessing of being able to share food with others, and cooking her dishes has helped me to grieve her passing and shaped a branch of my identity rooted in hosting and sharing.
Karipap pie (curry puff pie)
Karipap are a popular street snack traditionally filled with curried potatoes and sometimes sardinesor meat. This pie version has the same comforting filling, but is simpler and quicker. To make it vegan, swap the butter for vegetable oil and check that the filo is suitable for vegans, too.
Prep 10 min
Cook 1 hr
Serves 4–6
60ml vegetable oil
20–30 fresh or dried curry leaves
1 star anise
2 tbsp cumin seeds
1 banana shallot, peeled and finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
2 tbsp curry powder (mild or hot, depending on taste)
1 tbsp mild or hot paprika
5–6 carrots, cut into 1cm cubes
2–3 large potatoes, peeled and cut into 1cm cubes
2 vegetable stock cubes
1 tsp cornflour
300g frozen peas
4 tbsp chopped coriander
½ tsp salt
1 tbsp ground black pepper
For the pastry topping
10 filo sheets, chilled
100g butter, melted
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp cumin seeds
First, make the filling. Put the oil in a large ovenproof casserole on a medium heat, then fry the curry leaves, star anise, cumin seeds, shallot and garlic until fragrant. Stir in the curry powder, paprika and a tablespoon of water, and cook for 10 minutes, until the oil separates.
Heat the oven or air fryer to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4. Add the carrots and potatoes to the casserole, crumble in the vegetable stock cubes and stir in 125ml water. Cover with a lid and cook for 10-15 minutes, until the potatoes and carrots are fork-tender. Take off the lid, stir in the cornflour and cook for another five to 10 minutes, until the sauce thickens. Turn off the heat, stir in the frozen peas and chopped coriander, then season with the salt and pepper and set aside for five to 10 minutes to cool.
Meanwhile, take the filo out of the fridge. Mix the melted butter with the salt, then evenly brush it over both sides of one pastry sheet. Roughly scrunch up the pastry, lay it over the filling and tuck in the edges. Repeat with the remaining pastry sheets until the filling is completely covered.
Sprinkle the cumin seeds over the top and bake for 20-25 minutes, until the pastry is crisp and golden. Leave to cool for a few minutes before serving.
Mee raja (king noodles)
The charm of this dish lies in its versatility, because you can pair it with any kind of egg or rice noodle. I love how it celebrates the Malay love for sambal while using the east Asian influence of noodles, something the Malay community has happily adopted into everyday cooking.
Prep 10 min
Cook 25 min
Serves 2–3
For the sambal
1 x 50g tin anchovy fillets in olive oil
2 banana shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
2½cm piece ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 lemongrass stalk, finely chopped
2 tbsp curry powder (mild or hot, depending on your preference)
1 tbsp mild or hot paprika
2 medjool dates, pitted and finely chopped
For the noodles
60ml vegetable oil
1 banana shallot, peeled and finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
500g chicken mince
1 chicken stock cube
½ tbsp ground black pepper
1 tsp salt
400g dried egg noodles
1 large egg
To serve (optional)
3 soft-boiled eggs, peeled and halved
1 cucumber, cut into thin ribbons or matchsticks
First make the sambal. Tip the anchovies and their oil into a hot wok, add the shallots, garlic, ginger and lemongrass, and fry on a medium-high heat for five minutes, until golden and fragrant; add a splash of water if the mix starts to spatter. Stir in the curry powder, paprika and chopped dates, then add 160ml water, turn down the heat and leave to simmer for 10-15 minutes, until the liquid has evaporated. Transfer to a bowl.
Now for the noodles. Put the vegetable oil in the same wok on a high heat, then fry the shallot and garlic for two to three minutes, until fragrant. Add the minced chicken, stir for a few minutes, until it begins to release its moisture, then season with the chicken stock cube, black pepper and salt.
Push the chicken mince to the edges of the pan, creating a clear space in the centre. Put the noodles in the centre of the pan, add 100ml water, cover with a lid and cook for one to two minutes.
Lift off the lid and toss the noodles with the chicken mince until well combined. Make another well in the centre of the wok and crack in the egg. Leave it to cook undisturbed for 30 seconds, then mix thoroughly with the noodles and chicken, and take off the heat.
Scoop the noodles into a bowl and serve with the sambal on the side and optional peeled boiled eggs and cucumber ribbons.
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These recipes are edited extracts from The Malay Cook: Everyday Malaysian Recipes from Grandma’s Kitchen to Mine, by Ranie Saidi, published by Ryland Peters & Small at £25. To order a copy for £22.50, go to guardianbookshop.com
