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Neckties are having a moment. Spotted all over fashion week, from the runways (Fendi, Louis Vuitton, Jonathan Anderson’s debut at Dior) to the front row (Daniel Craig, Robert Pattinson, Lennon Gallagher), they’re also popping up on TikTok and Instagram.
However, if you’re not a celeb or someone who does regular GRWM TikToks, trussing up in one (when it’s not mandated in the dress code) may feel a little too much of a statement. With the right styling (ie avoiding looking like you’re cosplaying Don Draper), though, a tie can give your look extra punch in all the right ways.
The best ties for men
Secondhand picks
Vintage Celine silk tie
Ties are the first thing I rummage through in charity shops. Vintage ties tend to have more personality than new ones, whether it’s stripes or a paisley print, and they’re often made from silk – the best fabric for a tie. They’re also much more affordable. You might have to rummage hard, but it’s worth it when you’re the only person at a function with your one-of-a-kind tie.
Online, Vestiaire Collective is great for secondhand luxury brands. Expect everything from a vintage Burberry check to a Vivienne Westwood monogram, as well as countless Hermès designs. The one that caught my eye was this red Celine design, which has an understated Triomphe logo and horse-bit detailing. The best part? It’s £30. You can opt in for authentication to make sure it’s legit.
Vintage Chaps Ralph Lauren silk tie
For vintage ties, Rokit is your best bet. You can find classic thrifted styles such as novelty Snoopy collabs or Looney Tunes designs, but there’s also a strong selection of retro picks from discontinued designer lines. Case in point: this paisley tie by Chaps, the Ralph Lauren diffusion line that was big in the 80s and 90s.
Vintage Burberry pure silk tie
No list of secondhand retailers is now complete without Vinted, though you may have to scroll for a while to find the real winners. My tip: if you find one you like, check out the seller page because they could be someone who specialises in luxury ties. This Burberry tie, for example, is from @thefellow85, who has loads of good options to choose from.
High-street stores
M&S floral pure silk tie
Though a floral tie is a little trickier to get right, all you need to do is look at Leonardo DiCaprio’s in Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo + Juliet to see just how good one can look. That, or any of Dries van Noten’s menswear shows. Marks & Spencer currently has a strong floral option in pure silk available for £25.
Moss Italian silk medallion tie
This brand (formerly Moss Bros) has upped its game since dropping the “Bros” from its name in 2023, expanding from basic men’s office wear to cool smart-casual tailoring. Think double-breasted blazers, great knitwear and tailored trousers – alongside a great selection of ties. This simple medallion on brown silk is the best of the bunch.
Charles Tyrwhitt knitted wool slim navy tie
A knitted tie is a smart-casual flex – self-assured without feeling stuffy. For best results, stick to block colours, natural fibres like cotton or wool and always go for the OG silhouette with a flat bottom rather than one that’s pointed. Relaxed formal-wear expert Charles Tyrwhitt has just the ticket.
Luxury labels
Drake’s red-and-gold striped tie
Drake’s is the most luxurious choice for a preppy vibe. The British brand’s collections are full of sophisticated classics that wouldn’t look out of place on JFK Jr – and there are loads of styles to choose from: polka dot, paisley, striped and geometric prints. It was hard choosing a favourite, but this retro red stripe takes home gold.
Tom Ford polka-dot silk jacquard tie
What’s not to love about a polka-dot tie? Fun but just the right side of chic, too. Choose polka dots that are a good size (nothing too tiny) so they feel intentional. Tom Ford nails the brief with this tie that’s handmade in Italy from a burgundy and white silk-jacquard.
Paul Smith navy silk rabbit pinstripe tie
Paul Smith is the best place for tailoring with a twist. The British designer’s trademark is cool colour combinations and unexpected details. This tie is a perfect example, with a subtle artist pinstripe and multicoloured rabbit monogram.
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Tailoring brands
Gieves and Hawkes Carberry silk tie
Few brands have a legacy that dates back more than 250 years. Originally two separate tailors, Gieves and Hawkes joined forces in 1974. The latter is famous for being one of the first to establish Savile Row as the hub of tailoring we know today, hence the brand’s prime spot at No 1. History aside, it’s still one of the best London tailors, so, naturally, it’s a brand that delivers on the necktie front.
TM Lewin floral-geo silk tie
TM Lewin is the designer often credited with popularising the modern dress shirt, so it’s no surprise that it’s among the best places to find the shirt’s number-one accompaniment. Some of the collection feels a little reserved, but the tie that stood out for me is this handmade, silk geometric floral take – and it’s only £30. A win-win.
Huntsman deco tie
The brand Huntsman is the inspiration behind the tailor in the blockbuster movie franchise Kingsman, and the HQ is based in the brand’s Savile Row store. Hollywood nods aside, it’s a brand known for quality tailoring, whether you’re shopping made-to-measure or ready to wear. This pure silk deco tie is no exception.
Preppy brands
Polo Ralph Lauren neat silk tie
From Oxford shirts to polos, you can count on Ralph Lauren for preppy staples – and a key part of the uniform is a necktie. The ties are well made – this one is woven in Italy using pure silk – and there’s a good mix of statement styles, vintage-coded pieces and a few plain options, too.
Gant striped tie
Nothing says preppy like a striped tie – think Robin Williams as John Keating in Dead Poets Society – and Gant has the brief nailed down with this tricolour design. We’d expect nothing less from the expert in Ivy League style – the London Regent Street store looks more like a varsity clubhouse than a clothes shop.
Rowing Blazers Magic 8 tie
For an eccentric take on prep, look no further than Rowing Blazers. It was founded by Jack Carlson, an ex-Oxford rower who went on to represent the US before turning to rowing-inspired fashion. The brand’s titular selection of blazers encapsulates the vibe, and the ties follow suit. There are bright, multicoloured options, some made in collaboration with cult favourite cartoon characters such as Babar the Elephant, but my personal favourite is this Magic 8 Ball design. The answer is yes.
When can I wear a tie?
A good rule of thumb: wherever you can wear a suit, you can wear a tie. Beyond formal dress codes (weddings, Royal Ascot, Wimbledon, important work events), a tie can bring added finesse to a smart-casual look, too. Though this can be trickier to get right, I’d recommend leaning into a JFK Jr-coded preppy look. Brand-wise, think along the lines of New York label Aimé Leon Dore or Gant, teaming your tie with an Oxford shirt and jeans, beneath a V-neck jumper with tailored shorts, or even peeping out under a varsity hoodie.
For celebrity inspiration, A$AP Rocky is a master in the tie-styling department, with a recent duo of Celine looks that switched from oversized caramel double-breasted blazer by day to crisp black tuxedo and tie at night.
What type of tie should I wear?
The best ties are those with a little personality (note: personality does not mean novelty). Swerve anything that feels too boring or corporate – the classic block colour woven polyester tie is a hard no. Silk designs with stripes or understated patterns look best: think 90s Armani or vintage Ralph Lauren, and you’re on the right track.
My top tip? Always search the secondhand market. There is a strong range of silk designer ties from the 70s and 80s available at Rokit or Vestiaire Collective – you can find ties by brands such as Dior and Hermès for less than £100. And, even though it requires a bit of digging, charity shops are often a treasure trove for old silk ties. Try affluent areas, think Chelsea or Notting Hill in London, if you’re after luxury brands.
A knitted tie works, too. Take a look at Paul Newman in The Young Philadelphians – slimmer than your classic business tie in a block colour and with a flat, squared bottom. This style is particularly good if you want your look to lean casual.
How thick should my tie be?
There are no hard and fast rules on acceptable tie width. You could opt for a fat 90s vibe (my preference as I love louche Armani-style tailoring) or lean into something skinnier – just search for Hedi boys on TikTok to see how gen Z are bringing the Pete Doherty-coded skinny tie back, so-called because of designer Hedi Slimane’s penchant for thin ties.
There is one hard-and-fast rule on how to wear them: whichever style you go for, never tie with an extra-large knot. This is not a sixth-form disco. Even a classic Windsor knot can feel a little overdone. Instead, try a four-in-hand knot, the Windsor’s slightly asymmetric cousin, which looks a little more effortless.
Peter Bevan is a stylist and fashion journalist covering menswear, womenswear and beauty
