Why urea is the ‘unsexy’ hero of skincare

Like every industry, skincare has a few big-name players. A-listers like retinol and hyaluronic acid monopolize attention and media coverage. But what about the unsung heroes – like reliable, hardworking urea?

“It’s a really underrated ingredient,” says Dr Mark Strom, a dermatologist in New York City.

Strom describes urea as a “workhorse”, saying: “It does a lot of beneficial things for the skin, but it’s not sexy.” Why not? Well, some people associate it with urine.

Here’s what you need to know about urea.

What is urea?

Urea is a nitrogen molecule, and a chemical byproduct of the body’s metabolic breakdown of proteins. In mammals, it is found most abundantly in urine, as well as blood, sweat and milk.

More than 90% of global urea production goes into agriculture; it is a popular fertilizer ingredient and has been described as “the food of food”.

When it comes to skincare, urea is most often used in creams, but it can also be a component of gels, lotions and ointments. It serves as a humectant – meaning, it retains moisture in the top layer of the skin. This fortifies the skin barrier and results in “a more moisturized and plumped feeling to the skin”, says Strom.

It is sold in a range of concentrations, up to 40%. At concentrations above 10%, it also serves as a keratolytic, an exfoliant that helps the body shed the top layer of skin. If not exfoliated, dead skin cells build up and can result in dry, cracked skin, “like on the heels of the feet”, Strom says.

Is urea pee?

No.

Although urea is one of the most abundant components of urine, commercial urea is a synthetic produced in laboratories. You can see some very complicated diagrams about how it’s produced here, none of which mention toilets.

Which conditions can a urea cream treat?

Urea is commonly used to treat skin that is “really dry and rough”, says Dr Naeha Gupta, a board certified dermatologist.

These rough patches are often the result of conditions like eczema, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis and keratosis pilaris, a common and harmless condition that causes small red bumps to appear on the upper arms, legs and buttocks. These conditions all can result in the buildup of dead skin cells, and “something like urea can be really helpful for breaking down the skin and letting it discharge”, says Strom.

High concentrations of urea can break down the thick-skin buildup in calluses, says Dr Rajani Katta, clinical professor of dermatology at the McGovern Medical School at the University of Texas Houston.

Urea can also be used to “soften and remove damaged or diseased nails”, according to the Cleveland Clinic.

How do you use urea cream?

Low concentrations of urea – below 10% – are gentle and can safely be used on the body once or twice a day, Gupta says. She recommends applying a cream after a shower, when skin has been patted dry but there’s still some water on its surface. “The cream can really help retain that moisture,” she says.

Urea can be used on the face in low concentrations, but make sure to find a product that is specifically formulated for the face, because the skin there is more delicate, Strom says. Body moisturizers tend to include higher concentrations of urea, which can irritate the face.

For feet and calluses, Gupta suggests applying a higher-concentration urea product before bed, then slipping on socks. “That way, you make sure it’s not rubbing off and you’re really getting it into those thick areas,” she says.

I did this last week, and can confirm my dry, cracked feet were slightly less dry and cracked the next morning.

What are the risks of urea cream?

“Overall, [urea] is probably one of the safer ingredients in skincare,” says Strom.

Still, there are some precautions to take. While products with low concentrations of urea can be safely used by most people, Katta suggests that products with high concentrations of urea – 30% or above – be used under the supervision of a physician.

“Since it can break down thick skin, it can also break down normal skin, so high concentrations are used in only specific areas and very carefully,” Katta says.

According to the Cleveland Clinic, you should consult a physician if urea causes a rash, redness or irritation that doesn’t go away, or continued stinging or irritation.

If you are pregnant, trying to get pregnant or breastfeeding, you should also talk to a doctor before using urea. This also applies if you have an infection; broken, inflamed or burnt skin; or allergic reactions to food, dyes, medicines or preservatives.

Do people use pee for skincare purposes?

Unfortunately, it’s not unheard of. But as one dermatologist told the Independent in 2016, putting urine on your face isn’t a good idea because it can cause reactions and isn’t particularly effective.