3 hours ago
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What canapes can I make for New Year’s Eve with my Christmas leftovers that will still feel special?
Ella, via email
Finger food needn’t be fancy, so New Year is a good opportunity to clear the decks. The only real rule is to keep things to just one bite – no one wants to be manoeuvring a fork, after all. “People just want a big hug of comfort food with a decadent twist,” says Max Bergius, founder of Secret Smokehouse in east London. “If you’ve got a bit of smoked salmon left, get that on blinis and top with lumpfish caviar, which is only £2-£3 per 50g pot.” Mini fishcakes would also be just the ticket: “Whether you’ve got leftover smoked haddock or hot smoked salmon, fold it through mashed potato, mix with dill, lemon and fried leeks, then roll in panko and deep-fry.”
Ella could also have a ball with croquetas, too, says Nieves Barragàn Mohacho, chef-director of Sabor and Legado, both in London. “Make the bechamel up to three days ahead, then use leftover ham or chicken, or mushrooms, for the filling. Whizz old bread into crumbs to coat, then fry.” Sausage roll fillings are, of course, another natural home for those crumbs, or use them as a jacket for chicken pieces, says Joanna Brennan, co-founder of Pump Street Bakery in Orford, Suffolk. “Seasoning-wise, all you need is a bit of lemon zest and thyme, and they’ll sing so much more.” Incidentally, she adds, croissants make excellent crumbs, too: “You know how people use cornflakes to bread chicken? Well, croissant crumbs are also delicious.” (As are croissant crisps: “Thinly slice croissants, bake low and slow, then dip in melted chocolate flavoured with orange zest.”)
One of Luke Ahearne’s “favourite things” at this time of year is a leftovers sandwich, and that doesn’t have to stop post-Boxing Day, says the chef at Motorino in London: “Get some ham and turkey in an airtight container and freeze.” While you’re at it, set aside some cranberry sauce and honey ham glaze in the fridge. Come 30 January, defrost the meat, then pop in a 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6 oven with the reserved glaze for 20 minutes. “Cool and slice thinly, then lay on top of some sourdough and start building sandwiches with lots of cranberry sauce. Cut into bite-sized pieces and, honestly, it’s a winner.” Leftover turkey, meanwhile, could be turned into a spicy, crisp salad, says Luke Selby, chef partner of Pale Hall in Wales: “There’s always a bit of turkey leg left over, and it’s perfect for something punchy.” Shred the meat, then crisp slowly in a pan, and toss with leftover cranberry sauce loosened with lime juice, a spoonful of soy and a little chilli oil. “Finish with fresh herbs [coriander and mint, say] and some sliced spring onion, and serve in little gem leaves.”
Veg, meanwhile, can be scrubbed up and ready to party with a big batch of bubble and squeak. “Mix all your leftover veg with herbs, then season and add flour,” Ahearne says. Stamp out to “roughly the size of blinis”, then store in the freezer. “Refresh in a 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6 oven for 10 minutes and top with whatever you like – perhaps roast beef and grated horseradish?” Word to the wise, though: save a stash for brunch the next day.
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