3 hours ago
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After weeks of excess, it’s not surprising that our palates begin to feel a little jaded. The thought of another roast dinner makes me yawn, so something with spice feels exciting. Biryani, with its layered complexity of flavour and texture, has always been the ultimate celebratory centrepiece for guests to congregate around, and it needs little accompaniment bar a bowl of cooling raita. This meat-free version made with tender paneer koftas is light and fresh, yet still warming and packed with flavour. End on a sweet note with an incredible, Indian inflected tiramisu, which is fragrant with saffron and rich with nuts. Happy 2026!
Malai kofta biryani with apple (pictured top)
For an even more opulent biryani, tuck a couple of raisins and chopped cashews into the centre of each kofta. The addition of apple to raita is unusual, but I love the fresh, sweet, sharpness that granny smiths bring to it.
Prep 25 min
Cook 1 hr 15 min
Serves 4
For the koftas
300g paneer, grated
2 medium potatoes, boiled until tender, then grated
Sea salt and pepper
1 handful fresh coriander, finely chopped
1 green chilli, finely chopped
½ tsp ground cardamom
¼ tsp turmeric
2 tsp cornflour
1 tbsp plain flour
3 tbsp ghee
For the curry
2 tbsp ghee
1 cinnamon stick, broken up
2 green cardamom pods
2 cloves
1 tbsp cumin seeds
1 medium red onion, peeled and very finely chopped
2cm piece ginger, peeled and finely grated
2 fat garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 green chilli, finely chopped
1 tbsp tomato puree
2 medium tomatoes, skinned and pureed
1 tsp kashmiri red chilli powder, or mild chilli powder
15 cashews, soaked in hot water for 30 minutes, then blended to a paste
125g yoghurt, beaten with 50ml water
For the rice
500g basmati rice
1 cinnamon stick
½ tsp black peppercorns
4 cardamom pods, bruised
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp salt
To garnish
1 generous pinch saffron, soaked in 50ml warm milk
2 tbsp melted ghee
A few mint leaves
1 handful toasted cashew nuts
Crispy onions, or shallots (optional)
Mix all the kofta ingredients bar the ghee, then roll into ping-pong-ball-sized koftas (you should get about 24 in all ), making sure the surface is smooth and there are no cracks. Melt the ghee in a large, heavy-based pan, then fry the koftas in batches until golden brown all over. Drain on kitchen paper.
In the same pan, melt the ghee for the curry and fry the whole spices until they sizzle and turn fragrant. Add the onion, saute on a low heat for 15 minutes, until dark and caramelised, then add the ginger, garlic and chilli, and fry for a minute until aromatic.
Add the tomato puree, fry for two minutes until it starts to release its oil, then tip in the pureed tomatoes and kashmiri red chilli powder and leave to bubble for five to eight minutes, until thickened. Off the heat, stir in the cashews and yoghurt, then return to a low heat, add the koftas and cook slowly for five minutes, making sure not to boil the curry otherwise it will split. Season to taste, then transfer half the curry to a bowl.
Put the rice, spices, salt and two litres of water in a second saucepan, bring to a boil and cook for five to six minutes, until the rice is 80% cooked – it should still have some bite when you break it between your fingers – then drain.
Spoon half the rice over the curry in the pan, drizzle half the saffron milk and melted ghee over the top, then spoon on the reserved curry and cover with the remaining rice. Finish with the remaining saffron milk and ghee, cover tightly with foil, pop on the lid and cook on a low heat for 10 minutes.
Take off the heat, leave the biryani to stand for 15 minutes, then sprinkle over the torn mint leaves, cashews and crispy onions, if using, and serve with apple and raisin raita below.
Apple and raisin raita
The addition of apple to raita is unusual, but I love the fresh, sweet, sharpness that granny smiths bring to it.
Prep 15 min
Serves 6
500g Greek yoghurt
100ml whole milk
2 granny smith apples, peeled and, grated and dressed with a few drops of lemon juice (to stop browning)
40g raisins, soaked in hot water for 20 minutes and drained
15g mint, picked and finely chopped
1 green chilli, finely chopped (pith and seeds out of youremoved, if you don’t like the heat)
1 teaspoontsp cumin, rtoasted and roughly crushed
Sea salt and pepper to taste
Whisk the yoghurt in a bowl with the milk to loosen and, then add all the otherremaining ingredients and mix well. Chill in the fridge until needed.
Rasmalai tiramisu
This takes the main elements of a classic tiramisu – mascarpone, zabaione and sponge fingers – but swaps out the coffee and booze for a saffron-infused milk. It is rich, creamy and delicious, yet also light as a feather. Simply put, it’s tiramisu with an Indian accent.
Prep 10 min
Infuse 1 hr+
Cook 30 min
Chill 4 hr+
Serves 8
For the soaking milk
300ml milk
4 cardamom pods, lightly crushed
30g caster sugar
1 pinch saffron threads
For the zabaione
2 egg yolks
50g caster sugar
For the tiramisu
500g mascarpone
250g double cream
1 tbsp rosewater
2 egg whites
200g packet savoiardi biscuits, or sponge fingers
To garnish
1 handful toasted flaked almonds
1 handful chopped pistachios
Gently warm the milk, cardamom and sugar until the sugar dissolves, then let it come to a simmer (but do not let it boil), take off the heat and stir in the saffron. Leave to infuse for at least an hour, or overnight, then set aside three tablespoons of it.
To make the zabaione, whisk the egg yolks, sugar and a tablespoon of water in a heatproof bowl set over, but not touching, a saucepan of simmering water, until pale and thick. In a second bowl, whisk the mascarpone, cream and rosewater, then fold them through the zabaione. In a third bowl, whisk the egg whites to soft peaks, then fold through the zabaione mixture.
Briefly dip half the sponge fingers in the saffron milk, then lay them in the base of a 25cm serving dish. Spoon over half the zabaione mixture and top with half the nuts. Repeat with the remaining sponge fingers dipped in soaking milk, then dollop on the rest of the zabaione mixture and smooth the top.
Refrigerate for four to six hours, then serve sprinkled with the remaining nuts and saffron milk.
