Stuart Gillies’ lentil recipes: braised with pasta and spiced with cod

6 hours ago 5

Like most people in 1980s Britain, I didn’t really understand lentils, even though I was a professional cook in my 20s at the time. Until, that is, I had them at a restaurant in France, which braised them very carefully; thereafter I was for ever a convert. My favourites are French puy, Italian casteluccio and Spanish pardina, because they’re all refined, resilient and delicious; they’re versatile, too, and complement all sorts, from fish and meat to vegetables. The rich, Italian-style braised lentils for today’s pasta can also act as a base for all manner of other dishes, and they taste better reheated the next day – it’s the best earthy comfort food imaginable and just so happens to be seriously good for you, too. The fish dish, meanwhile, is a complete contrast, and packed with sweet and spicy flavours more reminiscent of southern Spain and north Africa.

Cod fillet with spiced puy lentils and garlic butter crisps (pictured top)

This spiced, aromatic combination pairs beautifully with grilled fish or chicken, and it’s finished with homemade garlic-and-parsley-butter crisps. The lentils work equally well without any protein and just grilled bread and salad instead.

Prep 20 min
Cook 50 min
Serves 4

For the spiced lentils
200g puy lentils
20ml rapeseed oil
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
10g fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely grated
1 small red chilli, stalk, pith and seeds discarded, flesh finely chopped
1 tbsp ground cumin
25g balsamic vinegar
10g chilli sauce – I like an old-fashioned one such as Lingham’s
15g sweet soy sauce
250ml tomato juice
30g tomato passata
Juice of ½ lime
1 small bunch coriander, washed, leaves roughly chopped, tender stems finely chopped
Flaky sea salt

For the garlic butter
1 garlic clove, peeled and grated
50g softened butter
Juice of ½ lemon
30g parsley leaves, roughly chopped
Salt

For the potato crisps
Vegetable oil, for frying
2 maris piper potatoes (about 400g), peeled
Fine sea salt

For the cod
4 160g sustainably-sourced cod fillet portions, ideally thick ones
Salt and pepper
25ml rapeseed oil
1 sprig fresh rosemary
50g butter

Wash the lentils thoroughly in a bowl of cold water for five minutes, then drain and tip into a saucepan. Add cold water to cover, bring to a boil, cook for 15-20 minutes, until just tender, then drain and leave to cool.

In the same pan, heat 20ml rapeseed oil, then sweat the shallot, ginger, garlic and chilli until soft but not coloured; add a tablespoon or two of water to help them along. Add the cumin and balsamic vinegar, bring to a boil, then stir in the chilli and soy sauces, tomato juice and passata. Fold in the drained cooked lentils, bring to a boil, then take off the heat and stir in lime juice, coriander and salt to taste.

Now for the garlic butter. Mix the garlic, soft butter, lemon juice, parsley and salt until combined, then set aside at room temperature.

Ideally, cook the crisps in a deep-fat fryer; alternatively, use a large, heavy-based saucepan. Either way, carefully heat the oil to 180C.

Meanwhile, and ideally using a mandoline, cut the potatoes into 1-2mm-thick slices, then wash and dry on a tea towel. When the oil is hot, carefully add the potatoes, in batches if need be, and fry, stirring gently with a slotted spoon, for two to three minutes, until light golden brown. Lift out with the slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.

In a large bowl, melt the garlic butter, add the hot potato crisps, season with salt and toss. Keep warm in a low oven.

Using kitchen paper, pat dry the cod and season with salt and black pepper. Heat the oil in a nonstick pan until hot, but not smoking, then lay in the cod, skin side down. Add the sprig of rosemary, then fry on a high heat for two to three minutes, until the skin starts to brown around the edges. Flip the cod fillets, add the 50g butter and cook on a medium heat for two minutes more, spooning the hot butter over the fish until cooked through and evenly coloured all over. Check the fish is done by piercing it with a wooden toothpick – it should go smoothly all the way through and without resistance. Lift the fish out of the pan and on to a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain.

Gently reheat the lentils, then spoon a good helping on to four plates. Top each with a cod fillet, put a stack of five or six garlic crisps on top and serve immediately.

Braised lentils with tagliatelle and toasted brioche crumbs

An Italian peasant dish of rich, earthy lentils and silky, fresh pasta. It’s surprisingly delicious and based on a meal we sometimes had for staff lunch when I worked at the Lord Byron hotel in Rome when I was 20. We ate like kings! Ideally, cook the lentils the day before, chill, then reheat gently.

Prep 15 min
Cook 45 min
Serves 4

250g dried puy lentils
50ml rapeseed oil
1 small carrot, trimmed and finely diced
1 shallot, peeled and finely diced
¼ leek, washed and finely diced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 sprig fresh thyme, or 1 pinch dried thyme
1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves and soft stems, coarsely chopped, plus extra to finish
750ml hot vegetable stock, plus an extra 100ml if reheating the lentils the day after
Salt and black pepper
75g butter
50g brioche, blitzed to coarse breadcrumbs
500g fresh tagliatelle
Grated parmesan, to finish

Wash the lentils thoroughly in a bowl of cold water, turning them frequently, for five minutes, then drain.

Put the oil in a heavy-based casserole, then gently sweat the carrot, shallot, leek and garlic, stirring often, for eight to 10 minutes, until soft but not coloured; add a splash or two of water to help them along. Add the lentils, thyme and parsley, then pour in 750ml vegetable stock and leave to cook at a gentle simmer for 25 minutes to half an hour, until tender. Take off the heat, season with salt and pepper to taste, then leave to cool. If possible, transfer the cooled lentils to a container, cover and chill overnight; otherwise, transfer to a large, clean pan and proceed as below.

Melt 25g butter in a small frying pan over a medium heat until it’s bubbling, then stir in the brioche crumbs and toss until well coated. Season with a pinch of salt and keep cooking and stirring until they brown lightly. Take off the heat and leave to cool.

When you’re ready to serve up, gently reheat the lentils with the remaining stock and a 50g knob of butter – they should look very moist. Adjust the seasoning, and add more chopped parsley to taste; keep the lentils liquid and add a little more stock if they seem dry.

Meanwhile, cook the fresh tagliatelle in boiling salted water for two to three minutes, until al dente. Drain the pasta, tip it directly into the lentil pot and toss and stir to coat and combine. Season with salt, pepper and grated parmesan to taste, then divide between warmed shallow bowls and serve immediately topped with the crisp brioche crumbs and with more grated parmesan on the side for those who want it.