8 hours ago
10
Most supermarket sushi is so bad that it makes the fact that master sushi chefs in Japan traditionally train for 10 years or more seem entirely reasonable. That said, the products in this test aren’t all bad, though the bar is pretty low.
My greatest concern, beyond the freshness of the seafood, was sustainability. Fish stocks are depleted and open-water aquaculture (especially salmon farming, the source of the UK’s favourite sushi topping) can have serious environmental implications and poor welfare standards. Even in-house sustainability claims are minimal, and just two products have any third-party certification. I awarded points for quality, freshness and certifications, and for including all three traditional condiments: soy sauce, wasabi and pickled ginger (most include only soy).
The best supermarket sushi
Best overall:
Taiko smoked salmon deluxe
★★★☆☆
The freshest and most skilfully made sushi of the bunch is rolled fresh in store. A huge selection of 14 pieces, including nigiri, lettuce rolls, hosomaki and, my favourite, smoked salmon, red pepper and rocket rolls. Soy sauce, pickled ginger and wasabi. No third-party certification, but Taiko is a member of the Sustainable Seafood Coalition.
Best bargain:
Sainsbury’s fish sushi selection
★★☆☆☆
A king prawn and a smoked salmon nigiri, a sweet chilli and MSC-certified cold-water prawn California roll, an RSPCA-assured cured Scottish salmon California roll, and two veggie hosomaki rolls with red pepper, carrot and ginger. Overcooked rice, and soy sauce only. One of the few products with some third-party certification.
And the rest …
M&S Kando classic fish selection
★★★☆☆
An eclectic western-style, eight-piece box, including a perfectly balanced king prawn and avocado California roll, reverse surimi roll, drab tuna and cabbage roll, king prawn and Scottish salmon nigiri and simple cucumber hosomaki. Firm, well-cooked rice. Soy sauce, ginger and wasabi. Made in the UK and with good traceability, plus M&S says it sources responsibly.
Yo! Ultimate Catch
★★☆☆☆
A 12-piece selection: four prawn and salmon nigiri, four California-style rolls (Marine Stewardship Council-certified surimi, avocado and sesame, and two really nice salmon, cucumber and sesame) and four veggie hosomaki. A bit tired but enjoyable. Soy sauce, pickled ginger and wasabi.
Tanpopo Montaro sushi
★★☆☆☆
An eight-piece selection, among them salmon and prawn nigiri, and tuna and chicken maki rolls, and all three of the holy trinity of condiments (soy sauce, wasabi, ginger). Tightly packed, overcooked but firm rice and plenty of fresh protein. Almost worth three stars, but no certification or clear sustainability.
Tesco smoked salmon, tuna & prawn sushi
★☆☆☆☆
Seven pieces, including a really neat and tasty sriracha prawn California roll, an underfilled and underwhelming tuna mayo California roll, and three salmon hosomaki rolls. Firm, fresh rice, but soy sauce only. Tesco says it works to ensure all its seafood is responsibly sourced.
★☆☆☆☆
Two California-style rolls (one with a surimi “crab” stick and one tuna teriyaki), two salmon nigiri and two salmon hosomaki rolls. Soy sauce only. Overcooked rice, disparate flavours. Country of origin Norway, but packed in the UK. No certification, though Co-op says all its seafood must meet its standards for sourcing fish responsibly.
Asda salmon & prawn sushi large pack
★☆☆☆☆
Three nigiri, two California rolls, and three small hosomaki made with cured and cooked salmon. A good, firm bite, and reasonably fresh rice and flavour. Soy sauce, wasabi and ginger. No certification.
Aldi Eat & Go fish sushi selection
★☆☆☆☆
A varied selection of six pieces of sushi including two reverse California-style rolls (one with tuna, the other with salmon and cream cheese), a prawn and a salmon nigiri, and two hosomaki rolls (one cucumber, one salmon). Firm and fresh. No certification.
For more, read the best smoked salmon, tasted and rated, and José Pizarro’s test of the best supermarket tinned sardines
